Calculates wave steepness, an important safety metric.
Steepness > 0.07 indicates breaking waves (dangerous).
Usage
calculate_wave_steepness(wave_height, wave_period)
Arguments
- wave_height
Significant wave height in meters
- wave_period
Wave period in seconds
Value
Wave steepness (dimensionless)
Details
Wave steepness = H / L where L = g * T^2 / (2 * pi)
Simplified: steepness = H / (1.56 * T^2)
Examples
# 3m wave with 8 second period
steepness <- calculate_wave_steepness(3, 8)
# steepness = 0.03 (safe)
# 3m wave with 4 second period
steepness <- calculate_wave_steepness(3, 4)
# steepness = 0.12 (dangerous - breaking waves)